The Bukit Bali: Almost an island in itself

When you say ‘Bukit’ to most Bali tourists, they have no idea what you’re talking about. The vast majority of visitors to Bali never make it down to the Bukit Peninsula, even though it offers a variety of things you don’t get in Kuta.

•Overview:
The Bukit peninsula is a upside down mushroom shaped limestone plateau. Sparsely populated and not suitable for rice cultivation, the Bukit was never a desirable place to live for most Balinese. The most famous landmark is Pura Uluwatu, overlooking the western coast. Years ago access to the Bukit consisted of thrashing up potholed dirt tracks and through bush. The discovery of the Bukit’s great surfing breaks changed all that, now access is via a surfaced road and each year more westerners move to the Bukit.

The permeable limestone drains rainwater away, meaning there are no lakes or rivers. Food
production means working a wide area for little return, mostly cattle and corn. As parts of the
Bukit have developed at a rapid pace over the last decade, other parts are still like Kuta in the
60’s with bamboo warungs serving hungry surfers nasi goreng and a Coke.

How to get to the Bukit from Kuta:
Head toward Simpang Siur, the big roundabout and head past Planet Hollywood to Nusa Dua. You’ll pass the airport and see a sign in the center divider indicating a right turn off for Uluwatu. This route takes you though the village of Jimbaran and past the Intercontinental Hotel and Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. Continue to the traffic light and head straight up the hill. You’re now on the Bukit. You could also keep going straight instead of turning off at the Uluwatu sign and turn right at the McDonalds on the Bypass. For Nusa Dua keep going straight on the Bypass and you’ll eventually come to the main gate.

Western beaches:
The western Bukit beaches are also home of the best surfing breaks in Bali. Three of them which are also suitable for beach goers and families are Dreamland, Balangan, Padang Padang. Along Jl. Uluwatu you will find an ever increasing selection of businesses and services, including warungs, board shops, internet cafes and a police station.

Dreamland:
The most popular and largest tourist beach on the western Bukit. Head up Jl. Uluwatu past GWK, straight the small intersection and you’ll come to a large entrance on your right side. Follow that for about 10 minutes, passing the new construction and you’ll be able to drive up to within 20 meters of the beach, given the road is heavily rutted and potholed.

There is accommodation available in the Dreamland area. The beach is wall to wall warungs, which are close to the breaking waves at high tide. Great spot to sunbathe, or sit back with a cold drinks and watch the surfing. Dreamland is a beach break.

Balangan:
Balangan is accessed via the same wide entranceway as Dreamland. Its the next break north, so you just continue until you see a small sign. Once again vehicle access is possible close to the beach via a rutted dirt lane. Balangan has plenty of warungs, although the beach is nowhere as popular as Dreamland. The beach itself is actually very good. Balangan is a reef break. Plenty of accommodation on the cliff top.

Padang Padang:
This reef break is very popular with advanced surfers. Getting there you can either follow Jl.
Uluwatu right to the end and turn right, swinging down to Padang Padang, or take the Bingin turnoff at Pecatu and swing round the other way. Access to the beach is via a short set of stone steps cut into a space between the cliff. The beach can be reached within 2 minutes.
Services are sparse, but the beach is okay to relax on and does have some shade over to the left side. Drink vendors and simple warung are on hand. Accommodation is available immediately back on the road.

Paradise beaches:
We all dream of that paradise white sand beach which is completely deserted. The Bukit has some of those. Pura Masuka and Padang Padang II are 2 of these.

Pura Masuka:
Head up Jl. Uluwatu towards Uluwatu temple. There will be a sharp right bend in the main road, with a small sign indicating Pura Masuka off to the left side. Follow this rutted road for 5 minutes and you will arrive at the cliff top. Directly behind the temple is a trial, 10-15 minute down to the white sand beach.

Padang Padang II:
Located between Uluwatu and Padang Padang is a perfect sandy beach, which is almost always empty. Access can be via Thomas homestay located just off the road.

Nusa Dua:
Nusa Dua is a planned resort area, comprising 20 or so large scale developments. If you need a hotel with 5 restaurants, 3 pools, massage, tennis, sauna and everything else you can think of, Nusa Dua will have it. One of the best hotels is the Conrad Nusa Dua, whose pool is a lagoon style design providing instant access from most of the ground floor rooms. Nusa Dua has a shopping center and an 18 hole golf course. One of the high profile events that happens each year is the Wismilak tennis tournament.

Nusa Dua is perfect for families with young kids. The reef protects the beach from big waves
allowing toddlers to splash around in safety. One of the most popular beaches in Nusa Dua is Pantai Geger. This beach is the location of the Nusa Dua Beach Grill, home of the best smoothies in Bali!

Never the nightlife capital of Bali, for the simple reason that outsiders wouldn’t be allowed in,
Nusa Dua does have an adjacent area where one can find a little evening entertainment. On Jl.
Pantai Mengiat are a string of western run restaurants, some with live music.

The Bulgari:
The Bulgari is owned by the Italian jewelry company. Standard rooms are US$1,100. The President suite is US$5,000 a night. Its the most expensive hotel in Bali and you can expect luxury everything, if you can afford it.

Tanjung Benoa:
The point that extends north from Nusa Dua heads toward Tanjung (cape) Benoa. The right hand side of the road is lined with resorts and water-sports places. There is a local clinic and also some budget accommodation. At the tip of Tanjung Benoa there are a couple of places you can sit and drink and beer.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu:
Pura Luhur Uluwatu on the western tip of the Bukit is one of Bali kayangan jagat (directional temples), protecting Bali from evil spirits from the SW. Its worth a visit, if not for the temple monkeys, then the magnificent view from the cliffs.

GWK:
Garuda Wisnu Kencana cultural park is carved out of limestone and provides a spectacular and surreal place for concerts. During the day it is open for visitors. There is a restaurant, shop and great views of Jimbaran and the south of Bali.

The Bukit peninsula has an amazing array of things, from paradise beaches, to fantastic surfing,
from bamboo warungs, to the Bulgari. One of the aspects of the Bukit that is appealing is the quiet nature of the place. If you want to feel what Kuta was like in 1970, ride around the Bukit, its right there waiting for you.