Canggu: The expat frontier in Bali

Canggu is the coastal strip stretching from Kerobokan up to Tanah Lot. The classification of what Canggu is changes somewhat as areas get developed, but if you say you live in Canggu, amonst people will get thre idea. Back in 2003 there were not many people living in the Pererenan area, now that has changed with villas popping up like mushrooms. So what has Canggu got to offer and why do people move there?

Canggu can be accessed in 2 main ways from Kuta / Seminyak, firstly by taking Jl. Raya Canggu and locating the turnoff you need towards the beach and secondly, taking the ‘back way’ via Jl. Petitenget, to Jl. Batubelig, passing Desa Seni and the Canggu Club. People who have moved from the Seminyak area out to Canggu often say it takes them back 20 years, with the village scene, the ricefields and a totally different reality. For people working in the Kuta / Seminyak area, Canggu offers the last place you can realistically live and still commute to work each day.

Surfers are quite familiar with Canggu as the coast there has a small selection of beach breaks, enjoying bigger swell than down in Kuta. Expats make up the largest foreign influence in Canggu, renting villas for an extended period and living a quieter life than in Seminyak.

The first part of the Canggu area you’ll come to is Brawa. Following Jl. Raya Canggu from Kerobokan will get you to the turn off in 10 minutes, or you can take the ‘back way’ and navigate the local potholed roads to get over there. On the way to Pantai Brawa you could choose to go through Canggu Permai, the collection of alleys that is home to Javanese immigrants and other Balinese. Canggu Permai really feels like a Indonesian slum, rather than a village, but right after the kampung you are back in the rice fields.

Jl. Raya Batu Bolong leading to Canggu surfing beach and the elegant Hotel Tugu. Jl. Pantai Batu Mejan leads to Batu Mejan beach (Echo Beach) and the small selection of warungs there. The star attraction is The Beach House, serving western food and drinks, with live music and open air bbq on Sunday evenings. There is a sign for The Beach House on Jl. Raya Canggu to help you find the place. You’ll have to pay a parking fee of 1,000rp to the Balinese guys manning the barrier, but its worth the good time. Several hundred meters back fom the beach is a line of villas for rent, including Villa Tepikali and Villa Manggis.

Pererenan beach is aonther surfing spot with a selection of villas close by. Navigating your way around Canggu can be tricky at first, particularly at night, as the whole area is a mixture of Balinese villages that all look alike and rice fields.

The newest and most exciting project to come to Canggu is the Canggu Club. This place is a huge construction that jump out of the rice fields after you take the ‘back way’ via Jl. Batubelig. You’ll have to decide for yourself if you like large expensive sport facilities in the middle of a traditional setting, but the place is impressive.

Expats with kids often like Canggu because the Canggu school works with the Canggu Club’s sports facilities. Canggu offers less distractions than Kuta / Seminyak and could be a good place for a family.

Accommodation in Canggu

•Bolare Beach Hotel
(0361)730258
Mid-range place located between Batubelig and Brawa beach. Decent rooms with hot water / AC. Nice garden and restaurant.

•Pondok Wisata Nyoman
0812/394 5967
Budget place located at Pantai Pererenan close to the beach. Fan rooms and easy access for surfers. Surfwatch Cafe is right there.

•Tugu
(0361)731701
Located on Batu Bolong beach, this place offers a high level of luxury and an original style. The dining room is like a Chinese fantasy, with statues and antiques, around one long table. Accommodation is a set of teak houses elegantly furnished. Includess pool, spa, restaurant.

•Wanna Villa
(0361)730263
High-end accommodation at Brawa beach. Private luxury villas with all the mod-cons.

Pros for living in Canggu:
•Ricefields and long empty coastline
•Village style environment
•Cheaper rents than in Seminyak
•More cool new places cropping up, such as Sukerti’s, Canggu Club, The Beach House.
•Plenty of villa options
•The surfing
•Fresh air and not much traffic.

Cons for living in Canggu:
•The ricefields are getting smaller every year due to villa construction.
•One aspect of living in a village style environment is people know your business. If you plan on an active social life, you may not appreciate this. Some westerners do not adapt to living next to a village environment.
•Your eating options are limited and require a drive.
•Any nightlife activity requires a 20 minute+ drive there and back.
•The beaches in Canggu tend to be windswept and not overly attractive.
•Strong currents make swimming a hazard.
•On occassion the surf will contain sewage in certain places.
•Canggu itself is quiet, but Jl. Raya Canggu is at best a racetrack and at worst gridlock.

For people on holiday, 2 places to check out for dinner are Sukerti’s at Pantai Brawa, and Desa Seni close to the Canggu Club.