Central Lombok: Mataram to Tetebatu

Central Lombok is the fertile strip that runs from Mataram in the west to Tanjung Luar and Labuhan Haji in the east.

The 74km long east-west highway from Ampenan to Labuhan Lombok is the busiest road on the island, trafficked by cars, motorbikes, bemo buses and cidomos (horse drawn carriages). Road conditions are good and a speed of 50km/h can be maintained, allowing one to cross Central Lombok in a couple of hours, allowing for breaks. Major towns along and close to the main road include Sweta, Lingsar, Narmada, Suranadi, Mantang, Kopang, Pomotong, Masbagik, Rempung, Aik Mel and Pringgabaya. There is also a parallel east-west road that runs from Mataram and Sweta, to Cakranegara, Praya, Ganti, Tangun and Tanjung Luar.

Heading east from Mataram and taking the southern route through Cakranegara, the Muslim weaving center of Sukarara is 25km away. You head for Puyung then drive 2kms to the village. Most locals are involved with producing traditional Sasak style songket, and lambung fabrics as well as selendang and sarongs. You can buy these but be sure to negotiate for good prices. The market town of Praya is the largest in the southern Central area as well as being the capital of Central Lombok. Praya has banks with ATM machines, wartels, warungs, and Hotel Dienda Hayu, located on Jl. Surapati, 26 (0370)654319. This is a budget place and if you didn’t have to stay in Praya you probably wouldn’t want to.

The town of Narmada, 5kms east of Mataram has a set of gardens named Taman Narmada. Built by the raja of Mataram in 1805, the gardens feature a model of Gunung Rinjani and a swimming lake (2,000rp). Located in the grounds is a Balinese temple, Pura Kalasa, which really comes to life during the Pujawali festival.

A few kilometers north of Narmada is the village of Lingsar, featuring the Balinese temple, Pura Lingsar. The temple was originally built in 1714 and admission is 15,000-20,000rp, which is paid to the ‘guides’. This temple is a place of worship for Hindu’s and Muslims. The Muslim Wetu Telu sect has a sacred area inside the temple with the god Wisnu looking on in the form of a large statue. Hindus and Muslims enact a mock battle during the Pujawali festival tossing compacted rice pyramids (ketupat) at each other. People wishing to stay in the area can go back towards Mataram on the main road and at around 2km find Puri Lingsar Bungalows (0370)671652. Simple rooms, nice garden, cold water for budget price.

Suranadi is another village located north of Narmada, just 7kms off of the main road. Pura Suranadi is a Balinese temple founded by Hindu holy man Nirartha centuries ago, after finding the natural spring. Hutan Wisata Suranadi is a forested area close to the temple designed as tourist rest area. Food and accommodation can be found at Suranadi Hotel (0370)636411 with a selection of bungalows, the better ones having hot water. Prices are mid-range and a restaurant is attached. Around 1km further on the same road is Teratai Cottages (0812 370 0936), offering very decent cottages in a scenic area. There is a swimming pool and a choice of rooms, the best ones having hot water / AC.

Seseot is a scenic hill village that has a mosque and a Hindu temple. Great place for relaxing and enjoying the views of the rice fields. Drive north from Suranade for 5-6kms past the Hutan Wisata Suranadi. A river runs through the village creating a tranquil landscape. The GEC Rinjani Country Club (0370)633488, is located in the area at the village of Golong, which is just 1km from the main road. This 18-hole course cost $50+ during the week and $70+ on weekends. High quality accommodation and spa.

Tetebatu is the most famous mountain village on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani. It is the perfect place to enjoy cool clean air and explore the local culture at your own pace.