Pura Luhur Uluwatu Bali
Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of Bali’s kayangan jagat (directional temples) and guards Bali from evil spirits from the SW.
This means that the temple affects the island as a whole and has meaning for all Balinese, not just the Uluwatu locals. During the Galungan festival (the most important event in the Balinese calender that occurs every 210 days and celebrates the victory of good over evil) people from all over Bali come to worship here.
Pura Uluwatu is located on the cliff top close to the famous surf break on the SW of the Bukit peninsula. The temple was founded in the 10th century by Empu Kuturan, a Javanese Hindu priest who built the tiered meru and a shrine here as well as at other key locations long the Balinese coast. In the 17th century Niratha also from Java came to Bali and built temples, adding to Uluwatu.
I rode from Seminyak down the Sunset Rd to the roundabout at Simpang Siur in Kuta and headed in the direction of Nusa Dua. Uluwatu is 18kms down the Bypass from Kuta and the turnoff is to the right.
The road Jl. Uluwatu takes you through the local area of Jimbaran and past some big hotels before heading up the steep hill and into the heart of the Bukit. I followed Jl. Uluwatu to the very end where it terminated at a parking area with Pura Uluwatu another 100 meters further on.
Parking was monitored by a uniformed attendant in a booth and the price was 1,000rp. He offered to look after my helmet too for no extra charge. An older man who was waiting there told me he was from Uluwatu and would be my guide if I wanted.
Walking towards the entrance of the temple I saw the stone archway with a set of rules and regulations for visitors, including the fact there was and entrance fee. The little office to the left of the entrance accepted my 3,000rp fee and gave me a ceremonial sash which when added to the sarong I brought with me meant I was properly dressed. Visitors not possessing a sarong can get one from the office. Sitting at the office was a lady who offered to escort me through the temple to protect me from the monkeys, who she said are aggressive. I talked briefly to other tourists who had just come out of the temple and they said to take off my glasses and hat as the monkeys will rush me and grab any loose items.
The regulations say visitors can only walk around the temple which I found a bit confusing. They are referring to the temple compounds themselves not the temple complex. When I had my sash and ticket I strolled through the 2 archways (candi bentar) and down and long pathway towards the main temple courtyard.
Continuing straight I saw a cliff top path that led somewhere and I followed it. The pathway was lined with a carefully built wall and after a while the path turned into a muddy track finally leading to a cliff top view point after several minutes. There was nothing special up there except this one lady with a both offering drinks and souvenirs. This route offers good view of the temple high up on the opposite cliff. I still hadn�t seen any monkeys and headed back to the main temple complex.
I took the steps close to the cliff on up to the main part of the temple which is located on the highest point overlooking the ocean. It is possible for a visitor to navigate around and peer into the temple compounds although signs say not to enter.
While I was there the place seemed very empty with no special events or worship of any kind going on. The temple compounds are made from white-grey coral blocks and are not really decorated in any special way. I saw a pair of Ganesh’s guarding the entrance to the outer courtyard. The inner courtyard at the highest point has a view both north and south and has merus, the multi tiered structures featuring thatched roofs.
Monkeys were present in this part of the temple and as well as lingering in the branches of trees were happy to patrol the temple walls looking for an unsuspecting tourist. I had no problems with the monkeys on my visit but I have heard they can be a pest.
Descending the wide steps on the western side to the main part of the temple I passed the kulkul tower which contains a wooden bell, slit down the middle, used to summon villagers. I also noticed a wantilan structure used for meetings. This seemed newer than the other stone temple structures and the monkeys were using this at home base.
I walked back up the hill, handed in my sash and retrieved my helmet thanking the attendant for looking after it. Its possible to check out Pura Luhur Uluwatu in 1 hour if you are pushed for time.
Riding back in the direction I came I passed the turnoff for the surfing beach at Uluwatu. From the temple it’s the first left turn and it will take you 10 minutes of riding plus another 10 of walking to get to the cliff overlooking the surfing beach where you will find warungs.
For those staying in Kuta many tour operators do a ‘sunset Uluwatu trip’ each day allowing you to enjoy the array of color changes. There is also a daily kecak dance from 6-7pm for 35,000rp.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu
•What is it?
One of the most important temples in Bali, situated on a cliff top, overlooking the ocean.
•Where is it?
On the western tip of the Bukit peninsula
•What’s there?
Great cliff views, a small clifftop Balinese temple, temple monkeys. Surfing break just around the corner.
•Best time to go?
When there is a temple festival, or evening dance performance.
•How do you get there?
From Kuta, take the Bypass towards Nusa Dua. Take the right hand Uluwatu turnoff, follow Jl. Uluwatu all the way to the end.
•How long does it take to get there?
About 30 minutes from Kuta.
Admission:
3,00orp
•Services:
Drinks available outside. Warungs located down at the Uluwatu surf break.
•Dangers & Annoyances:
Temple monkeys can be aggressive. Watch your hat / glasses / bag