Popular and less trafficked Temple sites: Pura Rambut Siwi

Pura Rambut Siwi is one of the coastal temples in Bali and is perched on a cliff in the west of the island. It is not however one of the 9 ‘kayangan jagat’ or directional temples that protect Bali from evil spirits in all directions. The temple was founded in the 16th Century by a Hindu priest from Java named Niratha. He loved the location and after building the temple spent his time spreading the Hindu religion in the Bali. Before he left the temple he gave a lock of his hair and a set of his clothes which are supposedly still at Pura Rambut Siwi stored in the inner courtyard. The temple is now known as ‘the temple for worshipping the hair’ .

Location of Pura Rambut Siwi:
Pura Rambut Siwi is located on the coast in Jembrana, west Bali, 16km west of Medewi.

Getting to Pura Rambut Siwi:
Riding out to Pura Rambut Siwi from Kuta, is easy. Follow the Sunset Rd Bypass to Kerobokan, then head in the direction of Tanah Lot, turning off at Beraban, up to Kediri and towards Tabanan. The trip takes about 2.5 hours and passes some lovely sweeping rice terraces close to the ocean in Suka Beach. The road from Tabanan heading west is the man road to Java so that means heavy traffic. I suggest rolling your windows up and cranking the AC if you do this trip yourself.

Arriving at Pura Rambut Siwi:
Arriving at Pura Rambut Siwi which is located 16km west of Medewi, you will notice the temple sign on the main road and the snack sellers, outside balancing large baskets on their heads. A small road 750m long, heading perpendicular to the main road led us to the temple which overlooks the ocean.

Facilities:
Drink vendors in parking area. Toilet.

Why would you visit Pura Rambut Siwi?
You’d visit this temple if a) you had a special interst in temples, or b) you were on a raod trip to Medewi / Negara and wanted to see a less visited temple.

How long does it take to view the temple?
You can cheack out the temple in 30 minutes if you are rushed.

Best time to go:
Anytime is good, but during the temple’s odalan (birthday) would be the choice time.

Accommodation in the area:
There is accomodation, both budget and mid-range in Medewi. Also budget options in Negara, though its not such an attractive option.

A donation of 10,000rp is needed to enter, sarongs and sashes are provided. Once inside the temple the guide stays in close proximity, telling you where to go. You can cut yourself a little slack if you want, and ask him to leave you along for a bit.

The temple itself has the usual 3 courtyards (outer, middle, inner) its just laid out differently and the inner courtyard is actually the one that sits next to the parking area.

My guide left me in the outer courtyard, and gave instructions for how I should proceed. On the rear of the temple, there are some interesting traditional scenes captured in cement carvings. These included a scene with a farmer, a fisherman and a monkey holding bird under its arm, all symbolic. The underlying stonework, was probably from the time of Niratha, but the cement carving are more likely to be around 100 years old. The gates and ornamentation are old, whereas brickwork that is clean and carvings that are super sharp are probably new.

Also at the rear of the temple were steps with large dragon like creatures either side. Dragons aren’t a part of Balinese Hinduism and we didn’t have an answer for this or the plate sized Chinese coin that is in the outer wall of the inner compound. Carved decorated doors had figures in impressive designs. Niratha’s hair is enshrined in a sandalwood box, located inside the central 3-tiered meru.

Out the back of the temple looking towards the ocean, there is a shrine to Dewi Sri, the goddess for rice and water. When Balinese men drink tuak, they will often pour the frist drop on the floor for Dewi Sri.

Looking over the cliff, a shrine is visible and at high tide, the water totally surrounds it. Down the cliff face there are small caves which have been turned into shrines. One of them Pura Tirta, has a freshwater spring, which is guarded by a statue of Niratha himself. The small cave complex has bats, Goa Mayan Sati (Cave of the Holy Tiger) being the main one. Only preists are allowed in this holy place. A 1 minute walk along the beach gets you to Pura Penataran, which is in honor of Baruna, God of the sea.

While photographing the different parts of the temple a female ‘pedanda‘ (high priest) came over and asked me to leave…’Bules not allowed in here.” she said in Balinese. I think she might have been angry that I saw her secret ceremonial equipment laid out, something that doesn’t happen too often.

This part of the coast isn’t developed at all and looked quite lovely with the swaying palms. We were all virtually melting from the heat and bought a Pocari Sweat from a vendor outside. I think the can of drink cost 5,000rp whereas the Circle K price is 4,000rp.

Pura Rambut Siwi is a quiet temple and the location plus the carvings make worthwhile if you have the time.