Popular and less trafficked Temple sites – Pura Kehen, Bangli

Pura Kehen in Bangli is one of the most valued temples in Bali. I have visited the temple with Barrie, back in 2004. Here’s more on Pura Kehen, Bangli.

The temple was built in 1206, although the site was used for worship long before that. Barrie told me before that this temple has some special features, and that the site is spectacular because of the hillside, the forest behind and the amount of plants that surround it.

The parking area was quite empty when we arrived at 4pm, with the last your bus about to leave. A set of warungs sit across from the temple, and the vendors tried to interest us a sarongs. Once again bringing our own sarongs and sashes, was well worth it. The temples is open daily 8am – 5pm, 2,600rp and 1,000rp for parking.

Temples in Bali do have a common design, although not always the same. Generally there is an outer, middle and inner courtyard and the inner courtyard is accessed through a ‘kori agung’ (stone capped gate) while the middle courtyard is accessed through a ‘candi bentar’ (split gate). Here at Pura Kehen I didn’t notice a middle courtyard and the gates are the opposite way around.

The outside decorations are great and a set of steep steps leads to the closed doors of the ‘kori agung’. Barrie pointed out the elephant sculptors and noted it was usual because Bali never had elephants (Bali never had monsters either but that didn’t stop the Balinese creating them in their imagination). A small compound which is guarded by a mythical fugre called a ‘naga’ , has inside a stone. This stone was supposed to have glowed red hot when the site of the temple was decided. You often find that stones and boulders are treated with reverence in Balinese temples, presumablty because they marked the original spot.

Passing through the ‘kori agung’ provides some drama and Barrie pointed out another strange feature of this temple, the location of the kul kul tower (the kul kul is the split log bell that summons people and is usually located in the right corner of the temple close to the entrance). The location was pretty much the same except that instead of a tower it was located high up in a banyan tree. You can just imagine a priest climbing up trying not to slip. Barrie pointed out a small sculptor of Dewi Sri the Goddess of rice on the inside of the gate.

On the outside of the inner courtyard, we saw that the wall of the temple was decorated with Chinese cups and dishes. I don’t know the significance of this.

The inner courtyard contains several roofed ‘meru’ including a very impressive 11 roofed meru, maintained very well with gold decorations and dedicated to Siwa. Barrie pointed out the Bedawang (giant turtle), that the whole structure was built on as the Balinese believe the universe rests on the back of a giant turtle. This structure is called the ‘meru Sanghyang Widi Wasa’, and is dedicated to the Supreme Deity. There are other meru dedicated to mountain gods. The sacred mask used for Barong and other dances are stored in these smaller meru and a special ceremony is needed to take them out.

I noticed the swastika symbol used in decorations. This is actually Hindu symbolizing the ‘wheel of the sun’.

During our visit there were 3 other tourists and the place was very quiet. Across the street locals have set up warungs and I was able to use the toilet in one ladies house for 1,000rp.

•Getting to Pura Kehen – From Kuta take the Bypass to Sanur, take the coastal route just north of Sanur heading east. When you get to the town of Lebih, close to the end of the highway, turn left and head to Gianyar. From there you head east, taking the left turn north to Bangli. Pura Kehen is on the northern side of the town. The drive takes about 90 minutes.

•Opening hours – Open daily 8am – 5pm

•Entrance fee – 2,600rp and 1,000rp for parking

•Dress code – Sarong and sash

•Accommodation – There is a homestay across the street from Pura Kehen. Pondok Wisata Jaya Giri (0366) 92255 is basic accommodation in a family compound, which could be and interesting cultural adventure.

Other places in Bangli include the affordable Artha Sastra Inn, on Jl. Merdeka #5 (0366) 91179, and the more modern Bangli Inn, located on Jl. Rambutan #1 (0366) 91419.

Bangli is not a tourist town so your choices for everything are limited.