Kerta Gosa: Bali’s Sistine Chapel

Kerta Gosa is the name of the former Royal Courts of Justice in Klungkung. Set is a courtyard of ponds, the highlight is an elaborately decorated ceiling featuring the wayang style of painting.

The entire complex is known as Taman Gili, but the name Kerta Gosa is better known. Balinese culture has its own system called adat, meaning traditional law, but for serious offenses Kerta Gosa was the end of the line. Kerta Gosa is located right in the center of Klungkung next to the main roundabout. The gardens of Taman Gili, in which Kerta Gosa sits, were built in 1710. The most impressive thing is the decorated ceiling containing terrifying artwork depicting good vs. evil. No doubt criminals facing trial shivered before the judges realizing the seriousness of their actions. While enjoying the royal court at Kerta Gosa murals featuring the Pan Brayut story, inside the Bale Kambang, located behind it. The Hall of Justice sports gruesome paintings highlighting what happened to sinners. Above these panels is the story of Bima Swarga, who goes to hell to search and redeem his parent’s souls.

The style of the paintings is Kamasan (wayang) and has a 2-dimensional puppet-like appearance, as it takes its form from the wayang-kulit shadow puppets. The humid atmosphere and lack of close attention mean these precious pieces will not be with us for long. Originally the paintings were on canvas, but in the course of restoration work in 1960 they were transferred to fibrous cement sheets. More restoration was done 15 years ago but the painting area again falling into disrepair as they are open to the elements. The other bale structures have some decoration and the museum is set back from the road, featuring early farming tools, paintings, models, kris (traditional knives) and other items including a Barong, the lion dance costume.

•Getting to Kerta Gosa:
It will take around 2 hours from Kuta.

•Opening hours:
Kerta Gosa is open daily 7am-5.30pm.

•Admission:
5,000rp.

•How long to spend at Kerta Gosa?
Probably an hour is good enough.

•Facilities:
There is a toilet but no food services. Downtown Klungkung has mostly local type warungs, limited menu. If you are heading East, you might want to wait and have lunch in Candi Dasa. If you are returning to the Kuta area, you might circle round and enjoy the culinary delights of Ubud on the way back.

•Address:
Main Street,
Klungkung,
Bali, 80700

•Klungkung Tourist Office:
(0362) 366 2 1448

Klungkung itself is not such a draw for tourists, but was an important center of Balinese culture at one stage. There is a monument to the puputan across the road from Kerta Gosa.