Saparua: Ambon’s Little Cousin: part III

Here is part III of Mike Hillis’s account from Saparua.

Saparua’s most famous citizen was a determined young man by the name of Thomas Matulessy. Fort Duurstede, built by the Dutch colonial government in 1676 in Saparua Bay, was stormed and captured by Matulessy and his followers on May 16, 1817 and the Dutch (with one exception) were all slaughtered on the spot that fateful morning. He was christened Pattimura (The Generous Lion Hearted One) because he spared the 6 year old son of his enemy commander, and he was executed by the Dutch shortly after his capture. Jean Lubbert, the 6-year-old son of the murdered Dutch general, attended the execution as Pattimura uttered his last words, ‘Gentlemen, enjoy your stay here in Maluku.’

The child was transferred to The Netherlands in 1820 and until today, his family officially goes by the name of ‘Van den Berg van Saparua’. I made a point to visit the house where Thomas Matulessy was born. As I entered the well kept house/museum, I was honored to meet Mr. Frans Matulessy, the ninth generation descendent of Kapitan Pattimura. He was a quiet man, both friendly and serious, and was well built and I was happy that I did not introduce myself as being Dutch! ( a little joke here- all are welcome) Frans took out original Dutch documents from 1817 (they need to get laminated!) and also showed me Pattimura’s original sword and hat that was worn on that famous day in 1817. It is worth a visit to the Matulessy house for any student of Maluku history.

What’s happening in Saparua these days for the inquisitive adventurer? Well, the diving off Molana and Nusa Laut islands, located just offshore to the south, is absolute world class. Deserted beaches are dotted around the island with special mention made to Laino Beach in the west. As usual in Maluku, westerners can walk the beaches here in solitude and not get accosted by locals trying to sell trinkets! There are nice forest walks, the very interesting village of Ouw that still make traditional hand made pottery, a visit to Fort Duurstede and the adjacent museum (bring a flashlight to see the displays), the northwest village of Kulur, which boasts the Cave of the Seven Princesses with a fresh water spring inside, and the Wednesday and Saturday market in Saparua town that sees all manner of bizarre items for sale by many Haruku and Nusa Laut islanders that attend each week. Saparua is a much lesser known destination compared to regional neighbors like Ambon and Banda, but for great diving with no crowds, leisurely beachcombing, history, easily arranged music and dance performances, and a good deal of ‘hammock’ time, this is an island that still feels like it is nowhere even close to the 21st century.

Travel and Accomodation details:

There are daily flights to Ambon from Bali and Jakarta. Ambon is the gateway point into Maluku province.
There are daily ferries from Tulehu in Ambon to Haria on the west coast of Saparua. It’s a 2 hour pleasant trip on a public ferry twice a day.
Maluku Divers can handle all your diving and adventure travel needs while in Ambon or Saparua. (unexploredadventures@yahoo.com)
Accomodation at Laino Beach guesthouse is simple and can be arranged by using Maluku Divers as your local agent.

Mike Hillis is a writer that specializes in travel to Maluku with a special emphasis on the ancient spice trade and its effects on world history.