Banda: Caught in a time warp in Indonesia

Banda is a part part of Central Maluku province and has an interesting history. Here’s what my guidebook says about Banda. ‘Nine small volcanic islands 160km SE of Ambon on the NE fringe of the Banda Sea, the Banda Group became world famous from the 17th-19th centuries as the original Spice Islands of the Dutch East Indies. These islands played gigantic role in Indonesia’s early history. To acquire ocntrol of the nutmeg trade, in 1619 the ruthless 31 year old Dutch Governor-General Jan Pieterszoon Coen exterminated Banda’s indigenous population – one of the blackest days in Dutch colonial history.’

‘Now comprising the southernmost islands of the Central Maluku District and governed from Ambon, the 2 main islands are closer together and you can get around them easily be prahu. There is magnificent scenery, beautiful sandy beaches, puffing volcanoes, easygoing accommodations, crumbling Dutch forts and ruined mansions, one of the finest harbors in the archipelago, and peerless coral gardens and reefs.’

So is it that Banda, located at the ‘ass end end of nowhere’ gets very little tourist traffic. Most of the visitors are divers, who come looking for the unspoilt marine life. The main town is called Bandaneira and has a small airport. There is only 1 flight a week to Ambon, which enables visistors to Bali to get out there. Bandaneira, has some great old Dutch buildings, some of which would be great to renovate. Banda tourism has been held in check by the guy who runs the province. He was put in power by Sukarno and deliberately keeps tourism low, so not to ruin the place and to make sure his businesses are the only ones. Apparently he made sure the runway could only accomdate a small plane, figuring a small planeload of divers once a week wouldn’t impact the scene to badly. Interesting place and I’d love to get out there. Diving friends of mine have said Banda is worth seeing. When the old governer croaks (he’s 75), Banda could see some growth.