Bali coast south of Gianyar

The coast south of Gianyar is important for Balinese people but not such a draw for tourists. Until several years ago most tourists didn’t even visit this section of coastline, those heading east to Padangbai / Candi Dasa taking the main roads through Gianyar and Klungkung.

As is common in Bali the newest spots on the tourist radar were discovered by surfers, with Ketewel and Karamas the main breaks. The SE coast’s black sand beaches are great for unpsoilt views and walking but swimming is not recommended due to the undertow.

The new Kusamba highway (Jl. Prof. Dr Ida Bagus) begins in Tohpati, the area just north of Sanur. Heading north on the Bypass from Sanur you’ll see signs for Gianyar and have to make a right turn to get onto the highway, passing beneath a huge archway. This route will zoom you out to Kusamba in less than an hour, the final exit connecting directly with the coastal road to Candi Dasa.

If you ignore the highway and head north towards the Ginayar tournoff you’ll pass stone carving merchants and many nice nurseries for plants of all sizes. One of the best times of the day to head out along the SE coast is right after sunrise. As the sun climbs in the east and Gunung Agung becomes visible, you’ll pass thorugh areas which were quiet rice fields until recently. Now farmers have to play dodge-ball with the fast-paced traffic to get from one side of their property to the other.

Coastal locations are traditionally important to the Balinese, who believe the ocean is the domain of the demons. As auspicious places such as clifftops or coastal outcrops, temples are built to protect Bali from the demons, Tanah Lot and Pura Luhur Uluwatu being 2 good examples. Along the SE coastal highway are a number of Balinese temples.

Pura Masceti is the most important temple in this area and there is signposted on the highway. Pura Masceti is a kahyangan jagat, (directional temple) protecting Bali from the south. During the Melasti ceremony, which leads up to Nyepi, temple items are taken down to the coast for ceremonial cleansing. Pura Masceti is located 12km east of Tohpati.

Heading east past Pura Masceti is a sign for Pantai Lebih, a coastal area popular with locals. Pantai Lebih requires a short drive to reach the beach and offers many local style warungs, making this a good lunchtime / afternoon / evening pitstop, the warungs staying open till midnight. Driving inland from Lebih one will come to downtown Gianyar after 10 minutes. Pura Segara (Sea Temple) sits across the highway and is another special place for Balinese people. Every year a special ceremony is performed to protect Bali from I Macaling, a demon who resides across the Badung Strait on Nusa Penida.

Another 2ms east is Pantai Siyut, the lcoation of a sweeping bay, used by Balinese fishermen and popular with locals. There are places to get a drink on the beach. Pantai Batu Klotok is aonther 3kms east and is blessed with views of sweeping rice terraces. The temple there, Pura Batu Klotok enjoys a beachfront location and is one of the 4 state temples in Klungkung. During the Melasti ceremony the ceremonial items from Besakih temple in Karangasem are brought here for ceremonial cleansing.

If you are driving all the way from Kuta to Candi Dasa there are petrol stations on the Kusamba highway. Road conditions are generally good, but you must keep a look out for locals who appear unexpectedly at small intersections.