A letter from Sumatra: 1993-part II

Upon arriving in Padang, we got a local bus to Buktitinggi up a little way in the hills. We arrived at about 11pm and iimmedaitely checked into a losman (cheap hotel) for 8,000rp, about $4. Not bad for 23 people! That’s the going rate for accommodation in Indonesia. The next morning we went for breakfast at the Three Tables Coffee House and started reading a brochure describing a jungle tour that was being offered. It left at 2pm that day for 10 days, so we decided to take it. The tour cost $125 each, everything included.

We got a minibus to Padang harbor, then took a 12 hour boat ride to Siberut island, off of the west coast of Sumatra. The ferry was a real joke. It looked fairly large, but they totally overloaded it with people and goods. It left at about 8pm and we got caught in a massive storm. The boat got about 30 minutes out into the sea and the waves were so big the captain decided to let th boat drift for a couple of hours before heading into the open ocean. Their navigation proceedure was a joke, basically there wasn’t any. I was laying on the floor together with a dozen or so locals. Everyone laying like a spoon and trying to dodge the falling boxes and cups that were flying around. I then realized the 2 guys that were driving the boat were standing right in front of us. To get a better look ahead they would remove a wooden window frame and peer out, aided by half a dozen passengers, all pointing and throwing in their 10 cents. Eventually our group found its way to the cabins, small 4 person sleeping compartments. I was very grateful to have a place where I could sleep and not be throdden on. Somehow the motely crew in the navigation room found their was to Siberut harbor and we set off for the interior in al ong canoe powered by outboard motor.

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